Freebord Germany

Rookie Border Anmeldungsdatum: 18.05.2008 Beiträge: 992

Ich habs schonmal im Ami forum gepostet...
wie gesagt, weiss nicht was ich sonst damit machen soll...

__________________________________________________
Surfing....Your not made out of glass
...Surfing can teach you more about life than any school, training or further education program...

when you first try to surf and you feel the power of the ocean, your mind changes radically. you feel, no - you know, that there is great power in nature and it could take down everything we know in seconds...But this is not what surfing is all about. for me it’s all about good fun times I can share with nice people. This is what matters as much to me in surfing as in life.

When you are out there in the water, you forget about your whole life. What happened in the past or what might happen in future. You just forget about everything around you, it’s all about the moment. That is something people keep forgetting about because they’re always too caught up in the past or in the future, so they totally forget about to live and enjoy the moment, the here, the right now, the unfakeable moment.

You are living and you got the freedom to do whatever you want as long as you don't hurt anybody else’s freedom with your action.

First when I started surfing I was scared as shit and I actually hated it. but I really wanted to be good at it, so i kept trying. You would think that after you catch your first wave everything is good and the fear is gone but, i can just say...no way man. the first 4 month’s of trying to be comfortable in the water were more like; “Hey…ok, I’m going to paddle out and just catch my wave in“, than I can say I was surfing and I am pleased." but every time I caught my "inwave" I always had to paddle back out to catch another one. there is something almost addicting about that feeling being pushed by the water, without electricity, just nature that even dolphins; probably smartest creatures on earth, do it all the time. But once I was out in the line-up again, I was just like: "fuck dude, why did I go out again, I’m fuckin scared". Well that was how it was for me. Probably like four months back and forth like that .

Once you've surfed different spots, different sizes of waves, different swells and you can read the horizon so you can actually kind of estimate what’s coming. Once you've been crashed on by a couple waves, felt the reef and got held under water for a little longer than you would think you could make it. You feel you’re not made out of glass, you start really enjoying every second of it. from jumping in the water, to duck diving your way out, to catching a wave and to do it again and again. It is the most feeling of freedom I can imagine experiencing in this world.

Surfing strengthened my way of thinking and my way of acting in so many ways. I am living more healthy and I have greater respect for Mother Nature (and myself) than I had before. It made me more calm and balanced. I think anything that does that to people cant be a bad thing. If every person on earth would be a little more surfer/ocean minded, the air we breath and the water we drink and swim in would probably be
cleaner and kept clean.

Some people search for happiness their whole life in materialistic things. Once they start they cant stop and it stresses them out. Don’t get me wrong, I think I could buy my self happy with a couple mil.. But what if I don’t get the mil?, and if I get it, for how long will it make me happy? Once you’ve bought everything you ever wanted and you did everything you ever wanted, what then? Plans and dreams you have might not always come true, and if they do than it takes forever. But one other good thing I learnt about surfing is:
patients! you can sit in the water for a really long time with no fuckin wave, but when one wave is coming and you catch it, you can be sure you’ll go back out there and wait again to ride another one. It is just how it is. If you cant be patient you may not get anything at the end. Of course some people get everything they want without waiting or doing anything for it. But I am not one of them "lucky ones". I am grateful for that, cause i think it makes me appreciative and it lets me enjoy good things that do happen, which in my eye’s is important to find the true happiness.

Another thing I learnt from surfing is, even when you think you got everything under control and you get a little cocky about it, there is always this one wave that puts you right back to when you started and makes you feel like a little piece of sand getting dragged helpless by the current. So even when everything seems to be working great, don't ever forget about what brought you where you are. Be grateful for what you have, even if what you have is not what you want. it could always be worse. Enjoy what you can!

That leads me straight to a great thing I learnt when I surfed the first times.
learning to surf was hard and it had allot to do with overcoming fear, I really wanted to know how to surf. so I had to work on it and be patient with learning. So what I actually want to say is, if you are not happy with your situation...than change it! If the way seems to hard or to long to take on and that’s why you don’t do it, than you probably don't deserve it. that reminds me on someone who lost a complete leg. After training and hard work he is fuking skiing again. so he completely deserves every carve he is making in the snow.

The last thing I can think of is that; when you can see those huge monster sets coming in on the horizon and you know there is no fukin way you can escape them or you are in situations you don't want to be. don't fuckin panic, just stay calm and focus on the situation. there is always a way out!

The bottom line is:
Don't underestimate.
Be respectful.
Be thankful.
Focus on what you have, and not on what you don’t have. Also focus on what you really want and how you can get it. This calls for: having a plan!
If your not happy with your situation, take the journey of changing it. Every change is a good change and it will take you forward in many ways.
Enjoy every new experience you have, either good or bad. this is what life could be all about.
Try to be a good and ethically correct person, it will make yourself happier, the people around you and maybe the world a better place.

John P. smith

ps; thanks josh for helping me out with this....

Echt n super artikel! Man hat auch gut was von deiner philosophie erkannt als wir bei dir waren. Vlt. sehen wir uns dann im sommer bei den ganzen events oder vlt. auf hawaii wenn ich zum ersten mal versuche DIE welle zu reiten wink

Rookie Border Anmeldungsdatum: 18.05.2008 Beiträge: 992